What is the first day like on a JMT start from the Lyell Canyon trailhead?
A planning question for lottery winners deciding how far to push on day one from Tuolumne Meadows: what does the terrain between the trailhead and Donohue Pass actually look like?
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Day one from Lyell Canyon is the gentlest opening on the entire John Muir Trail. The trail follows the Lyell Fork through a broad glacial valley for about 8 nearly flat miles, with the river alongside you the whole way, so water is never a concern on this stretch. Starting elevation is 8,600 feet, which also makes it a natural acclimatization day before the trail gets serious.
It gets serious at Donohue Pass, 11,066 feet, around JMT mile 36 and the first major climb of a southbound hike. The pass marks the Yosemite boundary, where you cross into the Ansel Adams Wilderness with Island Pass and Thousand Island Lake beyond. Most parties camp partway up the canyon or on the climb and cross the pass on day two rather than pushing over it the first afternoon.
Seasonal notes: in early July of a normal year, expect lingering snow near the pass and a strong Lyell Fork, and afternoon thunderstorms are a regular pattern in July and August, so plan pass crossings for morning. Cell service at the trailhead is nonexistent, and the Tuolumne Meadows store and grill are seasonal, so handle logistics before you arrive. Bear canisters are required from the first night.
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