Happy Isles to Past LYV (Donohue Pass eligible) Gear Checklist
This permit starts at Happy Isles and sends you straight past Little Yosemite Valley before your first camp, so day one is a long climb from about 4,000 feet with your heaviest pack. It is also one of only two trailheads that let you leave over Donohue Pass on the John Muir Trail. Hikers who started here describe a pre-dawn start, a big first day, storms near the falls and cold nights once they reach the high country. The gear that matters is a light first-day load, real rain and warmth, and a canister that fits.
What shapes your gear on Happy Isles
- What the trailhead is for
- The park describes this start for long-distance hikers who pass through the Little Yosemite Valley and Half Dome area and camp beyond it, toward Merced Lake or Sunrise High Sierra Camp. It is also one of two starts that reach the full John Muir Trail.
- Quota
- Nine places per day are reservable by lottery 24 weeks ahead and six are first-come, first-served one week ahead. All permits come through Recreation.gov, with none set aside for walk-ups.
- Donohue Pass exit
- The park lets up to 45 people a day leave Yosemite over Donohue Pass on the John Muir Trail. Fifteen of those places go to this trailhead and 30 to Lyell Canyon. Donohue Pass is the trail's high point in the park at 11,056 feet.
From National Park Service: John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails
- First night
- Your first camp cannot be in Little Yosemite Valley on this permit. The park limits camping between Happy Isles and Glacier Point and around the Sunrise Creek and Half Dome trail junction to the Little Yosemite Valley campground, so you keep climbing.
From National Park Service: John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails and National Park Service: Wilderness Regulations
- Day one
- A hiker who went to Tuolumne Meadows in one day started near 4,000 feet in the Valley, crossed Cathedral Pass above 10,000 feet and covered 24 miles. Another stopped about two miles short of Sunrise Camp with a full pack and called it the hardest day of his trip.
From Trail to Peak and Oregon Hikers Forum
What the agency requires on Happy Isles
An allowed bear-resistant canister
Allowed canisters are required throughout the Yosemite wilderness and hanging, counterbalancing or guarding food is not legal. Food includes drinks, trash and toiletries, and bear spray is not allowed. The park says you can rent a canister at any wilderness permit station.
From National Park Service: Wilderness Regulations and National Park Service: John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails
Your wilderness permit in hand
You must carry the permit and show it on request. The permit covers only the leader, trailheads, dates and group size written on it. Leaving the wilderness, or passing through Yosemite Valley, invalidates it.
A stove instead of a fire above 9,600 feet
Campfires are banned above 9,600 feet and in the Upper and Lower Cathedral Lake basins, and stick stoves are banned above 9,600 feet too. Below that line fires are allowed only in existing rings.
A trowel and a bag for toilet paper
Catholes go 4 to 6 inches down and 100 feet away from water, trail and camp. Used toilet paper leaves with you, never buried or burned.
What hikers carry on Happy Isles
A bear canister sized for the food you start with
A southbound hiker had a canister that held seven days of food, and after a resupply the new food no longer fit. The park rents canisters at permit stations and keeps lockers at the trailheads, Little Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne.
From Oregon Hikers Forum and National Park Service: John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails
Rain and wind protection for the first morning
One couple left the Valley at sunrise, were a mile short of Nevada Fall when a thunderstorm parked overhead, and sheltered under a rock overhang for an hour while rain kept falling. They met a hiker from Hawaii who was caught without the right clothes.
From Trail to Peak
A headlamp for a pre-dawn start
Starting early gets you up the falls before the heat. One couple woke at 3:45 in the morning and another pair was walking in the dark at 5:30.
From Trail to Peak and Kintec
A warm sleep system for the nights above the Valley
A hiker with a 30-degree down bag woke chilled at 4 a.m. and said a 20-degree bag would have helped, plus a full-length pad, since a short pad left his feet resting on his pack. Two hikers heard from others finishing that it had been cold, with snow, rain and hail.
From Oregon Hikers Forum and Kintec
Extra water and sun cover for the exposed afternoon
A fast-packer who started at Happy Isles and went over Cloud's Rest found the afternoon hot and exposed, and a bad headache set in before the long descent to Tuolumne.
From Kintec
Food mailed ahead to the Tuolumne post office
A hiker who carried a full first-week load out of the Valley said he would start with one day of food in the canister and mail the rest to Tuolumne. The park accepts packages there addressed to General Delivery from about mid-June to mid-September.
From Oregon Hikers Forum and National Park Service: John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails
Camera or phone battery for a long first stretch
One hiker took few pictures on day one to keep a camera battery alive for seven days until the next charging point at Muir Trail Ranch.
From Oregon Hikers Forum
15 people can go on one permit. Split this list between them so nobody carries two stoves.
Plan a trip hereWhat hikers regret or leave behind on Happy Isles
A week of food on day one
The climb out of the Valley with a full load while fit and acclimatization are both lowest is what wore out the hiker who stopped short of his goal.
From Oregon Hikers Forum
A summer-weight outfit for a storm
The solo hiker caught in the thunderstorm near Little Yosemite Valley was shocked by the cold of a summer storm. Pack a real shell even for a day that starts clear.
From Trail to Peak
A short sleeping pad
A three-quarter-length pad let the cold ground reach a hiker's feet, and he ended up using his pack as a footrest.
From Oregon Hikers Forum
Bug spray in a low-snow September
A hiker who went in mid-September of a record-low snow year left it home and never needed it. Bugs depend on the season, so check conditions before deciding.
From Oregon Hikers Forum
Gear questions for Happy Isles
What does the Happy Isles to Past LYV permit mean?
It is the Happy Isles start for hikers who pass through the Little Yosemite Valley area and camp beyond it, toward Merced Lake or Sunrise High Sierra Camp. It is one of two starts that can reach the full John Muir Trail.
From National Park Service: Trailhead Information and National Park Service: John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails
Where can I camp the first night from Happy Isles on this permit?
Not in Little Yosemite Valley. The park limits camping near there to that campground, so people continue toward Sunrise Camp or the Merced River side.
From National Park Service: John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails, National Park Service: Wilderness Regulations and Oregon Hikers Forum
Do I need a bear canister when hiking from Happy Isles?
Yes. Allowed canisters are required throughout Yosemite, hanging food is illegal, and you can rent one at a permit station.
From National Park Service: Wilderness Regulations and National Park Service: John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails
Can I use a campfire on the hike north of Happy Isles?
Only in existing fire rings below 9,600 feet. Fires are banned above that and in the Cathedral Lake basins, so carry a stove.
What weather should I pack for on the first day from Happy Isles?
Be ready for a thunderstorm and for cold nights higher up. One couple was pinned under a rock near Nevada Fall by a storm and another said the nights called for a warmer bag.
From Trail to Peak and Oregon Hikers Forum
Sources
- Trailhead Information · National Park Service · Agency
- John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails · National Park Service · Agency
- Wilderness Regulations · National Park Service · Agency
- The John Muir Trail, 9/11 to 9/25/12 · Oregon Hikers Forum · Trip report
- John Muir Trail Day 1: Happy Isles to Tuolumne Meadows · Trail to Peak, Drew Robinson · Blog
- Fast-packing the John Muir Trail Part 1 · Kintec · Blog